None of the three is better for everyone, so choose by the finished formula, not the plant name. Centella, heartleaf and mugwort are plant extracts that appear in many Korean serums, ampoules and creams. The texture, the rest of the ingredient list and how your skin reacts tell you more than the botanical on the front of the bottle.
What is the difference between centella, heartleaf and mugwort?
They are three different plants, and each has its own entry on an ingredient list, called the INCI name. Check that entry to see what is inside. The European Commission's CosIng database helps with ingredient names, but it does not approve an ingredient or prove that a product works.
| Name on the front | INCI entry to look for | Example formats at Keauty |
|---|---|---|
| Centella | Centella Asiatica Extract | Serums, ampoules, creams, a sleeping pack, a sun lotion |
| Heartleaf | Houttuynia Cordata Extract | A lotion, creams, cleansers, a clay mask, toner pads |
| Mugwort | Artemisia Princeps Extract in the example below. Mugwort can refer to different Artemisia species or plant parts. | An ampoule |
Centella vs mugwort: how do they compare in real products?
The plant name matters less than the formula around it. Take two centella products. The Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule 100ml has a short ingredient list of seven entries, with Centella Asiatica Extract at 30,000 ppm (3 percent), and is described as lightweight and non-sticky. The Purito Wonder Releaf Centella Serum Unscented 60ml lists 49 percent Centella Asiatica Extract plus niacinamide, ceramide NP, panthenol and peptides. Both say centella on the front, yet they are different formulas.
The mugwort example here is the Isntree Mugwort Calming Ampoule 50ml. It lists Artemisia Princeps Extract first, then glycerin and butylene glycol, and later licorice root extract, calendula extract, panthenol, ceramide NP and allantoin. You take 2 to 3 drops and pat them into the skin, much like the Skin1004 ampoule. So the choice between centella and mugwort is really a choice between two formulas and their directions. Mugwort is also one of the herbs covered in our guide to hanbang, Korean herbal skincare.
Mugwort vs heartleaf: which format suits you?
Heartleaf, listed as Houttuynia Cordata Extract, appears in a lotion, creams, cleansers, a clay mask and toner pads. The Anua Heartleaf 70% Daily Lotion 200ml lists 70 percent heartleaf extract and is described as a lightweight lotion that does not feel heavy or greasy. It goes on after an ampoule or serum, one or two pumps in the morning and at night. Set against the few drops of the mugwort ampoule, these heartleaf products are lotion and cream steps, so the real question is which step you want to add: a drop-on ampoule or a moisturizer.
Heartleaf vs centella: how do two creams compare?
Both plants come in creams, and the textures differ. The AXIS-Y Heartleaf My Type Calming Cream 60ml is a water-light cream, described as fast absorbing with no sticky residue under SPF or makeup. Its ingredient list also includes centella and licorice root extracts, so one product can hold more than one of these plants. The Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Enrich Cream 50ml is a centella cream whose product page mentions shea butter and a silky finish, and it goes on as the last step of the routine.
How do you choose between them?
- Write down the one routine problem you want to solve, such as a moisturizer that feels too heavy or a step that feels missing.
- Compare the full ingredient list, the texture and the directions, not only the plant name.
- Check for fragrance and any other known personal triggers. The Purito serum above is sold as Unscented, and its ingredient list has no fragrance entry.
- Introduce one product at a time and keep the option that stays comfortable.
If your winter air is dry and your home is heated, you may reach for a richer cream, such as the Skin1004 one above. In warmer months a lotion or ampoule may feel lighter. That is a preference about texture, not a rule.
To compare formats, browse the Serum, Ampoules and Essence collections.
Can a plant name tell you whether a product will work?
No. A plant name alone cannot show that a product will reduce redness, repair a barrier or suit sensitive skin. In the EU, cosmetic claims must meet common criteria under Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013, and the U.S. FDA likewise separates claims about appearance from treatment and structure or function claims. Read the claim on the pack as a description of the whole product, not as a promise from one plant.
What should you do if your skin reacts?
Stop the suspected product if you get persistent burning, swelling, blistering or a worsening rash. Adding one product at a time makes the timeline easier to read, but it does not diagnose an allergy. Reactions that are severe or keep coming back deserve a professional assessment.
FAQ
Can I use centella, heartleaf and mugwort together?
Some formulas already combine two of them, such as the AXIS-Y cream above, which lists heartleaf and centella extracts. If you layer separate products, add them one at a time. What you can mix in skincare and what to separate covers the combinations to avoid.
Which one is better for sensitive skin?
There is no shortcut, because sensitive skin reacts to individual products. Check the whole ingredient list for fragrance and for anything that has bothered you before, then add one product at a time. Patch test on a small area first, and ask a doctor or pharmacist if you have a skin condition.
What does cica mean on a label?
Cica is a shorthand that appears in product names. Skin1004 pairs it with centella in both the Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Sleeping Pack 100ml and the Probio-Cica cream above, and describes the Hyalu-Cica formula as hyaluronic acid plus Centella asiatica. Always check the ingredient list for the actual entry and where it sits in the list.
Does a higher percentage or ppm mean a stronger product?
Not on its own. Some lists state the extract as a percentage, such as 49 percent, and others in parts per million, where 10,000 ppm equals 1 percent. A bigger number tells you how much extract is listed, not how the whole formula feels or how your skin will respond. Compare it with the texture and the rest of the ingredient list.
Keauty sells some of the products mentioned here.
Sources
- Cosmetic ingredient database (CosIng). European Commission.
- Contact reactions to cosmetics. DermNet New Zealand.
- Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013. European Commission.
- Wrinkle treatments and other anti-aging products. U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
This is general cosmetic information. Skin differs from person to person, so patch test new products and ask a doctor or pharmacist about any skin condition.
